Keep Aloha in Kauai

By: Janna Mock-Lopez

There are many reasons to love the Hawaiian Islands. Indeed, never-ending strands of white sandy beaches and sparkling blue waters to entice you no matter which direction you go; luscious balmy breezes and stunning sunsets are guaranteed. It’s true that the scenery will capture your heart and nourish your spirit.

It’s equally known that each individual island is different. From the terrain, landscape, amount of tourism, attractions and range of accommodations, island after island can deliver the unique experience you seek. Whether you desire being totally pampered, or being the only one for miles walking along on a desolate beach, Hawaii is the place for you and your family.

The only thing that matches the unsurpassed beauty of Hawaii is the kindness of its people. Gracious, warm and eager to share the riches of their culture, Hawaiians embody the Aloha Spirit – meaning they welcome you to their home, without pretense or ulterior motive.

We, on the other hand, have clear motives for presenting Hawaii to you.

• We want you to recognize that if you’ve ever dreamed of visiting the islands, now is a great time. With planning, you can find incredible deals on room rates and airfare. And with Hawaiian Airlines daily non-stop service to Maui and Oahu, after lunch and a few movies, you can arrive at any of your island destinations to catch the sunset.
• Getting and being there has never been easier or more affordable.
• Most people have dreams of going “someday,” but today is your someday. These are the memories life is made of and, whether you go alone, with a friend or spouse, or entire family, you will never regret making the financial or time effort for doing so. The only thing you might regret is not being able to carry the beach and warm sun home with you. But, we’re pretty sure the department of agriculture and the airlines wouldn’t approve of those items in your luggage.

Join us over the next few months as Portland Family presents a sample slice of paradise in each issue. This month, we’re being whisked away to Kauai, Hawaii’s oldest, and perhaps most lush, of the eight islands.

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The first time I went to Kauai, I was 20 years old. I went with Cris, my boyfriend at the time. That had been my initial encounter with the Hawaiian Islands, so the scenery, smells and people were mesmerizing; those memories set the Tiki bar on Hawaiian beauty. The next time, two decades later, I was traveling alone; no kids, no spouse, no expectation of being on the clock. I arrived on Oahu in the early afternoon, had a short layover, then a quick 25-minute flight to Kauai. I had forgotten how small the Kauai airport was.

Rental car packed, sunglasses on, I found my way towards Poipu Beach, and the Sheraton Kauai Resort. Possibly one of the best locations on Poipu for watching the sun set, the Sheraton Kauai Resort is bigger than I imagined it would be (set on 20 acres), but it didn’t feel overwhelming like large-scale properties sometimes can. Welcomed by the gorgeous fragrance of a purple orchid lei placed around my neck, I was shown to my ocean-view room.

The first thing I did was take off my shoes and walk outside to the lanai. I closed my eyes, breathed in the sweet warmth of the afternoon air and gazed out on the ocean’s vast turquoise horizon. Compared to Oregon’s mostly gray landscape, including its ocean, the Hawaiian Pacific shimmers.

I spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the property. My job at hand was to discover all the great attributes about the Resort property (tough job, I know…) so I could inform you why the Sheraton Kauai Resort’s such an ideal choice to bring your own family when you visit.

Here are a few highlights: The Garden Isle’s only oceanfront luau is at the Sheraton Kauai Resort. The Surf to Sunset luau happens on Monday and Friday nights, and kids of all ages (including you!) will love the lavish buffet of traditional Hawaiian delicacies, including kalua pig, lomi-lomi salmon and fresh island fruits, such as pineapple, mango and guava. Though the food is plentiful and delicious, the best part of the night is the showcase of Polynesian culture, song and dance set against the spectacular backdrop of a gorgeous setting sun.

The Sheraton Kauai Resort has several other restaurants onsite, including Shells, which serves breakfast (kids 12 and under eat free with a paying adult) and upscale dinner; Naniwa, a Japanese and sushi dinner establishment; The Point, which offers dinner, drinks and appetizers; and the more casual Oasis Bar and Grill.

Keep exploring the property and you’ll soon discover a large outdoor pool, which has a smaller kids pool for wading, surrounded by deck chairs for parents to lounge. One of the best qualities about the Sheraton Kauai Resort is the long list of daily activities for keiki (kids) and adults. You can learn to make bracelets using seashells or seeds from Hawaiian plants, string together flower leis, learn how to play the ukulele, do yoga on the shore, explore tidepools, discover traits about the Hawaiian monk seal or even take free scuba lessons. The recreational and educational programs are well-thought-out, fun and varied.

Though it’s tempting to stay on the property, Kauai is a gorgeous island, with lots to do, so eventually you’ll have to twist your own arm to venture out. My second day I took a leisurely, educational bike tour of Koloa Heritage Trail. (My tip this tour is to put sunscreen on the back of your calves. Though I put it everywhere else, I forgot this one area and felt the burn for about three days!) Led by two amazing cultural historians and genuinely cool people, Auntie Stella and Lopaka, our group meandered through four unique districts of the South Shore. We stopped at several markers that highlighted the natural history, archeology and culture of the Koloa district and heard stories about their legendary lore.

Stops included Spouting Horn Park, which was called puhi, or blowhole, by early Hawaiians. The puhi was formed when waves eroded softer, underlying rock and wore through the harder top rock. Water rushing into the hole is forced through the narrow opening and shoots skyward. It’s pretty neat to watch a Pacific-style version of Old Faithful.

At one point the bike group stopped at the curve of a bay and saw four or five sea turtles bobbing their heads in and out of the water.

We also stopped at Prince Kuhio’s birthplace and park, which honors Jonah Kuhio Kalanianaole, who was born in Koloa in a grass hut to Princess Kinoiki Kekaulike and High Chief David Kahalepouli Pi`ikoi. Prince Kuhio became a delegate to U.S. Congress after Hawaii became a Territory in 1900. He dedicated his life to serving the Hawaiian people.

That night I dined at one of the best restaurants on the island: the Beach House Restaurant. Yes, I had fresh fish, (macadamia nut crusted mahi mahi,) and yes, I had a fruity cocktail to go with my meal. I’m not sure which was better: the flaky fish melting in my mouth or the fact that I didn’t have to get up eight times during my meal to get milk, napkins, clean forks or ketchup for one of my kids. I topped off the meal with molten chocolate desire for dessert. Based on the name, does it really need a description?

The next few days I explored the island a bit. There are many choices of places to go and things to see on Kauai, but one of the things I appreciate about this island, specifically, is that compared to the other, more popular islands, geographically it’s much smaller, so getting from one side to the other is a short jaunt, and not a half-day excursion. Assuming you’ll stay on the sunnier side of the island in Poipu, getting to Princeville, the Na Pali Coast or to Waimea Canyon, all of which are unique to Kauai, you can do so in a few hours or less.

I went to Waimea Canyon – donned as the Grand Canyon of the Pacific. How do I begin to describe the breadth, scope or magnitude of such immense beauty? The canyon measures 10 miles long, one mile wide, and is more than 3,500 feet deep. It was carved thousands of years ago by flowing floods draining from the summit of Mount Waialeale (the rainiest spot on the earth with nearly 450 inches of rain a year). Horizontal lines across the canyon walls depict different volcanic eruptions and lava flows that have occurred over thousands of years. The colors of emerald greens, crimson reds, lilac purples and russet browns constantly change as the sun moves across the sky and an afternoon cloud cover starts to form. You could come back a thousand times and the landscape or view would never look the same twice. This is truly a breathtaking, awe-inspiring experience, and one I highly recommend during your stay on Kauai.

Getting around by foot, bike or car are all perfectly acceptable ways of taking in the sights. But remember, I was sans kids. So what would any other adventure-seeking mom-on-the-Hawaiian-lam do?

I opted for an off-road vehicle tour, guided by Kauai ATV, who’s motto is “Do Something Dirty.” This morning adventure was probably one of my favorites on the trip.

After checking in at Kauai ATV’s main office, I got directions to the location several miles away where the tours start. I got suited up – and by that I mean helmet, camouflage pants, shirts, goggles and bandana to wear over my face to avert the dust. Dressed like an island version of a commando, I hardly recognized myself. But I must admit, not having the option of worrying about my fashion statement was refreshing.

Since I’m not a kamikaze ATV rider, I chose the tamer vehicle version called a “mud bug.” This is a custom-made two-seater “dune buggy” that can withstand rough rocks, gravel and mud and can turn on a dime. I was among 12 or so other people from all over the world, including several honeymooners, and we had the wonderful opportunity to traverse through 22,000 private acres of hidden dirt roads and trails that most visitors never see.

Driving the mud bug at high speeds and enjoying breathtaking views of Ha’upu mountain range (where Jurassic Park was filmed) left a perma-grin on my face the entire time. I felt free. I felt giddy. The world of clocks, expectations and deadlines was a million miles away. The ride ended at a private waterfall where we all took a refreshing dip followed by a picnic lunch supplied by Kauai ATV. Even though I showered thoroughly when I got back to the hotel, I’m sure I had red dirt in my ears and under my nails for several days after the ride.

That night I had the wonderful occasion of attending yet another fabulous luau; this one was at the Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort and Spa. Though I didn’t have the opportunity to stay there, the grounds of this property were lush and gorgeous, and the evening’s food and entertainment were top-notch. I especially loved the traditional dances of Tahiti and New Zealand, and the exhilarating fire knife dance of Samoa.

I returned the following day to receive a much-awaited lomi lomi massage at the Hyatt’s 20,000 sq. ft. Anara Spa. Amidst luxuriant tropical grounds, soaking pools and waterfalls, treatments are provided in open-air, teak and thatched-roof bungalows set within a secluded garden that has private lava-rock showers and a wild-ginger steam grotto. At this point in my vacation, the stresses, the worries and the lines on my face from living a harried day-to-day existence back at home disappeared. Though I only got to briefly experience the Grand Hyatt Resort and Spa, I plan on making this resort a must-do in the near future.

Mid-way into my stay I changed lodging locations to the Aston at Poipu Kai to get the feel of another sort of accommodation – refurbished condos. Families might sometimes prefer to have a single place where they can plop all their stuff, cook their own meals, have access to a washing machine and not worry about whether or not room service is coming.

The ocean view from my unit was fantastic, and it had a big balcony to hang out on. This is where I sipped my morning Kona coffee and watched the sunrise. I was lucky to be staying in a recently remolded unit, which meant top-of-the-line appliances, beautiful fixtures, comfortable beds and lots of amenities, such as games, books, beach chairs and snorkel gear. There were two large bedrooms and two bathrooms.

Aston Poipu Kai’s grounds immediately surrounding the condo units aren’t amenity-heavy, but this option is really about having a home base for your family that’s both convenient and cost-effective.

Sadly, my trip in paradise was nearing its end; I had only one more day to enjoy the island beauty. I opted for a guided kayak tour up the Hule’ia River. About 45 minutes from Poipu, I was shuttled in a van to the launch point at the base of the river. Alongside a small group of fellow travelers, we received paddling instructions and were handed a large wet-bag for our belongings. Through jungle wetlands, we gently paddled upriver until we reached a place to dock our kayaks. Our guide then took us on an easy hike through the interior forest above the river. He identified berries, plants and flowers, and it was interesting to see how many hundreds of the plants on Kauai are considered non-native, invasive species.

I strongly recommend bringing plenty of insect repellent and sunscreen for this adventure. Without it, you’ll get sunburned while paddling the river and chewed up while hiking the forest. Kayaking the Hule’ia River was a beautiful non-beach way to see unique parts of Kauai.

With yet another fruity cocktail in hand, my last night was spent listening to the ocean, watching the glistening stars, hording the warm breeze and smelling the fragrant air. I reflected upon my magical memories and wonderful people I’d come across. People in Kauai are perhaps the friendliest of any place I’ve ever been. Both the natives and non-natives who call Kauai home seem to understand and respect the special spirit of where they live, and more importantly, lovingly share that aloha with all who come in contact with it.

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Aloha:
[Alo = presence, front, face] + [hâ = breath of life]
“The presence of (Divine) Breath.”

The word aloha derives from the Polynesian root alofa. It has descendents in other Polynesian languages, such as the Māori word aroha, also meaning “love.” Aloha in the Hawaiian language means affection, love, peace, compassion, goodbye and hello. Aloha is a recognition of life in another. Life is believed to be everywhere – in the trees, the flowers, the ocean, the fish, the birds, the pili grass, the rainbow, the rock – in all the world is life – is god – is Aloha.

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Hawaiian Airlines flies daily, non-stop from Portland to Maui and Oahu, which means getting there is convenient and easy. Hawaiian Airlines safety and flight schedule performances are consistently top-ranked and the service is awesome. Flight time is just over five hours. Visit hawaiianair.com or call 800-367-5320. Inter-island flights are under a half-hour.

The beauty about the Poipu Beach area is that, no matter your accommodation preference (from luxury hotel, to bed and breakfast, or understated private condo or home), you have lots of choices within your price range and to fill your family’s needs. If you’re looking into renting a house for your vacation, a great resource is the Parrish Collection Kauai. From the modest to the most lavish, the perfect home to fulfill your needs awaits you. parrishkauai.com.

Random recommendation:
Puka Dog: A “must do” located in Poipu Shopping Village. These are grilled Polish sausages or veggie dogs complemented by one of four garlic-lemon secret sauces (mild, jalapeno, chili pepper and habenero), then topped by one of seven tropical relishes, including mango, pineapple, papaya, coconut, banana, star fruit or guava. These are placed into a bun-sized loaf of bread, which gets toasted. A total slice of Kauai heaven. pukadog.com.

For all of your accommodation and recreational possibilities, visit Poipu Beach Resort Association at poipubeach.org

Sheraton Kauai Resort: sheraton-kauai.com or 808-742-1661. Reservations: 866-716-8109.

Aston Poipu Kai: astonhotels.com or 808-742-7424. Reservations: 877-997-6667.

Grand Hyatt Resort & Spa: Anara Spa: kauai.hyatt.com or 808-742-1234.

Kauai ATV: Recreational tours recommended for families with kids ages 5 and up. kauaiatv.com or 808-742-2734.

The Beach House Restaurant: the-beach-house.com.

Bike tours: Outfitters Kauai (they also offer zipline and kayak tours): outfitterskauai.com.